Cauliflower Romanesco 120 Vegetable Seeds

Product no.: SEEDV245

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Packet Content (approx) 120 (0.4g)


Cauliflower Romanesco is probably the finest of the romanesco in our opinion. Its mild, sweet flavour, soft, melting texture and attractively turreted spears combine to make Veronica one of the most desirable of vegetables. If you have never grown a romanesco before, we urge you to try this superb strain.

Sowing: April through End June

Nearly all Brassicas should be planted in a seedbed or in modules under glass and then transferred. Seeds should be sown thinly, as this reduces the amount of future thinning necessary and potential risk from pests.

Sow seeds 12mm (½in) deep in rows 15cm (6in) apart at 21°C (70°F). You may prefer to plant seeds directly outdoors in early summer, at about 2 cm deep, and in rows of 30 - 45 cm apart, with each cluster of seeds in the row being 15 – 30 cm apart. Thin seedlings to 60 cm apart, as they mature (picking out the weaker specimens). The seedlings will normally take 9 – 21 days to emerge! Thin the seedlings to 7.5cm (3in) between each plant.

Transplanting: Late May to July

Once the plants have five to six leaves Transplant them to their final growing positions, space 75cm (30in) apart. Water the rows in the seed bed the day before and carefully lift the seedlings with as much soil as possible around the roots and place in prepared hole. Plant firmly, setting the seedlings at the same level as in the seedbed. Pack soil firmly around seedlings. Protect seedlings from birds with netting or fleece.


The secret of success is steady growth. From transplanting time onwards they need copious watering, if checked at any time, they are liable to form very small heads. Mulch the soil around the plants three weeks after planting, drenching it with water afterwards. Replace mulch as it deteriorates and pull weeds away from the plants. Winter cauliflowers have the hazard of too much water to contend with in the winter, as well as too little in the summer. Earth up the soil in early to mid-autumn to form a continuous low ridge. This ensures that the excess water drains away from the stem. It also helps to strengthen the plants against the winter winds.

Because they grow slowly over a longer period of time, and have to face winter conditions, the one thing you want to avoid is lush, rapid and therefore vulnerable growth. If plenty of manure has been dug in, there is no need for additional fertilizers, prior to planting out winter cauliflowers. The curds may "yellow" if they receive too much rain, frost or snow. Protect by bending the plant’s own leaves over them. When the curd reaches about three inches in size, Secure with soft string, rubber band or a clothes peg. (A few varieties are self-blanching, meaning the leaves curl over the curd.)

Harvesting: June to December.

  • It is best to begin cutting some of the heads once the curds are firm to the touch and whilst they are still fairly small. Waiting for them all to mature will mean you will have a glut of cauliflower.
  • If the individual florets which make up the head or curd of the plant begin to separate then you have waited too long to harvest.
  • When harvesting, cut in the early morning when the plant is freshest, ideally with dew on it. During frosty weather however, it is better to wait till the warmest part of the day.
  • Cut through the stalk close to ground level with a sharp knife, leaving enough leaves around the curd to protect it.
  • Unlike some Brassicas, the cauliflower will not produce worthwhile shoots after its head has been cut, so clear the remains of the crop as quickly as possible.


Suitable for the vegetable garden, allotments and containers.

Be prepared to water well and supplement feed with high-potash feed during season. Regular feeding is recommended.


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